San Antonio, Texas

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Hill Country    Natural Bridge Caverns    Pedernales Falls

Hill Country

The next day we drove north into Texas Hill Country.  Before arriving in San Antonio, we had expected stereotypical dirt and sagebrush, dry land flat to the horizon.  But southern Texas is neither brown nor flat. Its rolling hills are covered in green.  And in April, this part of the country is known for its wildflowers.  As a result of a highway beautification campaign by Ladybird Johnson, many highways are paralleled by seas of bluebonnets (Texas' state flower) and carpets of red and yellow Indian paintbrush [above].  Although 2002 was not the best year for wildflowers, we caught glimpses of the magnificence that a good year could offer.

Natural Bridge Caverns

Within a 2-hours' drive north of San Antonio are numerous state parks that offer camping, hiking, swimming, fishing, rafting, and other diversions. 

Our first stop was not a park but Natural Bridge Caverns, Texas' largest "living cave." Discovered in 1960 and opened to tours in 1964, it is still as it was found, except for some lighting, walkways, and handrails for safety. 

A guide took us on a 1-mile, hour-long walk about 230 feet down at the lowest point. Subterranean chambers included "Sherwood Forest," the "Castle of the White Giants" (50 ft wide, 50 ft high, and 250 ft long), and the "Hall of the Mountain King" (100 ft wide, 100 ft tall, and 350 ft long). [At left is one of the rooms, with columns that towered far above our heads.]

 

Stalactite, stalagmite, flowstone, and column formations included the "Bomb Burst," the "King's Throne," resembling an ornate throne draped with curtains, the "Chandelier," and even "fried eggs," squat, flat calcite formations. Water dripping into pools and underground rivers added sound effects.

The limestone formations were amazing in color, shape, number and size. Many of them were incredibly large, especially given that they are created at an average rate of only 1 cubic inch every 100 years! 

We were awed by this natural spectacle, which photographs can't do justice. Cameron had never been in a cavern before, but even we grownups found it to contain the most interesting rock formations we'd ever seen. 

 

After lunching  at a picnic table on grounds outside the cavern, we continued north on highway 35 to New Braunfels and San Marcos,  then northwest to Johnson City (named for the President's forebears). 

 

Pedernales Falls State Park

 

From there it was a short drive east to Pedernales Falls State Park. The falls [left] did not contain much water, and the angle of their descent is shallow, but they run over interesting 300-million-year-old limestone strata. 

 

We enjoyed scrambling over the rocks, then walking the quarter-mile Hill Country Nature Trail [below].  

 

But most fun was finding a slow bend downriver, close to the park's campground, where we could wade and swim.

The water was cool but not cold, and Cameron spent much of his time searching for fish and frogs in the shady shallows. Amy was a bit unnerved by the many signs warning that flash floods could appear at any moment, but we enjoyed a perfectly idyllic afternoon. 

Our return south offered a special experience:  a real Texas thunder and lightning storm! After enjoying clear, sunny skies all day, the storm was a surprise, and we were glad to be in the car. 

The thunder was deafening through our roof, and the lightning flashed ominously in the distance. The rain fell in sheets so thick that we had to slow considerably on the freeway because we could only see a few feet in front of our car!  

Once we'd driven through the storm, we were rewarded by not only a single rainbow...but a triple one!  Texas was smiling on us!

We dined that night at the Texas Land and Cattle steak house. Is it typically Texan that patrons are expected to drink their beer from the bottle? The steak was good, however.

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