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Mustang Island    USS Lexington    Padre Island

Mustang Island

The next day we drove two hours south to Corpus Christi and checked into our room at the Clarion Inn. Corpus Christi turned out to be less than impressive. It is an industrial town, with oil refineries never far from view. 

We drove north up long, thin Mustang Island, a flat and uninspiring piece of land covered in little but dune grasses and interrupted by occasional condominiums. We'd hoped to visit the beach, but most beachfront property on Mustang Island is private. In addition, where the public is allowed, they must pay for the privilege of also driving their cars and trucks onto the sand. The only place where we could access the water for free without fear of being run over was at a small stretch of waterfront near the pier in downtown Port Aransas. We got out for a while, and the beach was windy and exposed, but we did find some interesting animals. 

Both dangerous and fascinating were the gelatinous blue and pink Portuguese men-of-war, a relative of the jellyfish, marooned on the beach [below right]. Their stinging tentacle can grow as long as 6 feet and can cause serious pain. Fortunately, Cameron knew immediately what they were because he'd done a third-grade research project on jellyfish (smart kid!), so we didn't touch. 

Also littering the beach were many odd-looking cabbagehead jellyfish, chunky white jelly-heads without any tentacles [left].  These are harmless to humans.

On a miniature car ferry we took a 5-minute ride from Port Aransas on Mustang Island to Aransas Pass on the mainland. Then we headed back to Corpus Christi. We ate dinner at Blackbeard's Restaurant. The fish and chips were average, but the salsa was so good that we carried a heavy jar home in our suitcase. Our day's explorations had not been very fruitful, and we hoped for more interesting sights the following day.  

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USS Lexington Museum

The next morning we spent about three hours exploring the USS Lexington Museum. This turned out to be fun and fascinating for all of us. Cameron enjoyed exploring so many mysterious nooks and crannies; Jan was interested in the many technical details, such as the catapults for the aircraft; and Amy imagined what it would have been like for her father to live on a similar carrier, the USS Oriskany, during the Korean War.

The USS Lexington CV-16 is a vintage wartime aircraft carrier. Commissioned in 1943, she served the United States longer and set more records than any other carrier in the history of naval aviation. 

The Lexington joined the Fifth Fleet at Pearl Harbor. During WWII, she participated in nearly every major operation in the Pacific Theater and spent 21 months in combat. Her planes destroyed 372 enemy aircraft in the air and 475 more on the ground. She sank or destroyed 300,000 tons of enemy cargo and damaged an additional 600,000 tons. The ship's guns shot down 15 planes and assisted in downing five more. The Japanese reported the Lexington sunk four times, once after having been hit by a kamikaze flier, yet each time she returned to fight again, leading the propagandist Tokyo Rose to nickname her "The Blue Ghost." 

After WWII, the Lexington was briefly decommissioned, then operated primarily with the Seventh Fleet out of San Diego.  She kept offshore vigil during tensions in Formosa, Laos, and Cuba. Eventually she became a Navy Training Carrier. The ship was decommissioned in 1991 and turned into a museum. 

 

We were able to self-guide a tour of nearly the entire ship, from the engine rooms [right] to the bridge. We walked through the commander's stateroom, the galley, the post office, the sick bay and pharmacy, the officers' and crew's quarters, the pilots' ready-room, the combat information center, and many other areas. We saw the anchors and the 3-in. and 44-mm gun mounts, as well as a number of special exhibits honoring various crews and events. 

On the flight deck [above], we viewed 19 aircraft, including an F-14 Tomcat, A-4B Skyhawk, F-4A Phantom II, A-7B Corsair II, and AH-1S Cobra helicopter. 

With one small question, we started a museum volunteer, a former Lexington crew member, talking for 15 minutes about the ship and his experiences. He was obviously happy to share his knowledge and proud of "his" ship, and his enthusiasm was infectious.

Ship facts:  Crew: 1,550 crew § Flight deck: 910 ft § Height: 52 ft § Decks: 16 § Flight deck landing area: 90,000 sq ft § Hangar bays: three § Displacement: 42,000 tons § Speed: 3+ knots § Range at maximum speed: 4,131 miles § Propellers:  four, 16 ft in diameter § Fresh water production: 180,000 gallons/day § Fuel storage: 1,500,000 gallons ship's fuel, 440,000 gallons aviation fuel § Anchors: 15 tons § Medical facilities: 20-bed capacity surgery, two doctors, two dentists § Food service: crew daily consumed 660 lbs of meat, 164 gallons of milk, and 97 dozen eggs. 

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Padre Island National Seashore

We spent the afternoon at Padre Island National Seashore, just a bridge length from Corpus Christi. It was so much nicer than Mustang Island!

Narrow Padre Island is about 60 miles long, spanning from Corpus Christi to Port Mansfield, Texas.  To the north is Mustang Island, and to the south is South Padre Island, which reaches to the tip of Texas at Port Isabel. All three are barrier islands, a chain of islands along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts that guard the mainland from the onslaught of storms. 

Padre Island is unique in that it has not been developed. Even hiking and driving in the dunes are prohibited to preserve the grasses that hold the dunes in place. The beach, dunes, grasslands, and tidal flats are shaped and reshaped daily in response to winds, waves, tides, and the occasional violent battering of tropical storms and hurricanes. 

Like many barrier islands, Padre Island is slowly expanding toward the mainland as winds and storms deposit sand on the its west side.

 

The beach at the Malaquite Visitor Center, at the north end of Padre Island, was nearly deserted, yet we had use of all the facilities, including a park service information center, small gift shop, and bathrooms with showers. On the beach were wooden cabanas with tables. 

We settled into one, then spent a relaxing, sunny, secluded afternoon on the soft, hot sand.  We wandered the beach inspecting shells, unusual seaweeds, crabs, and expiring jellyfish. Cameron built a major public works project to hold back the sea, while Amy and Jan read and napped. 

At one point Jan and Cameron discovered that the eastern seagulls would flock around their heads like marionettes on strings if they offered a few crackers [right].  

We also saw sandpipers, terns, and brown pelicans. A pair of sand chipmunks skittered into and out of holes nearby if we sat still.  

Dinner that night was a bit of a disaster.  In a search for "just pizza," we ended up at Panjo's Pizza, which on first inspection resembled the old Shakey's in Seattle.  However, the staff were inattentive, we waited ages for a simple order, and the pizza was only slightly better than the tasteless cardboard grocery-store variety. Oh well....

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