Quebec

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Botanical Garden    Parc Olympique    Biodôme    Saint Joseph's Oratory    
Mont Royal

Montréal Botanical Garden

The Montréal Botanical Garden showcases over 21,000 species and varieties of the world's plants in 30 outdoor gardens, ten exhibition greenhouses, and a 96-acre arboretum. We thoroughly enjoyed a peaceful 2-hour stroll (one could spend a whole day and more) through the Garden's most special attractions.

The first thing we did upon entering the Garden was to take a helpful tram ride around the perimeter to orient ourselves. 

 

The Garden contains many beautifully landscaped specialty areas—alpine, flowering stream, lilac, rhododendron, shade, aquatic, Turkish, marsh and bog, and rose gardens. It also houses an insectarium and butterfly house, which we did not have time to visit, and features a First Nations garden that highlights the Indian cultures that existed in the Montréal area long before European settlers appeared. But the Garden's star attractions are probably the Japanese and Chinese gardens. 

The Japanese Garden harmoniously combines water, rocks, and plants. Arched bridges link islets where visitors can pause to appreciate the serenity of the scene. Orange koi and blotched carp swim lazily in lily-covered ponds. In the garden's pavilion is an extensive bonsai collection.

The Chinese Garden, the largest of its style in North America, is inspired by those of the 14th- to 16th-century Ming Dynasty. Water and stone are the primary elements: more than 3,000 tonnes of yellow stone were excavated from nearby St. Helen's Island to create a mountain large enough to host a waterfall and two pavilions, and 500 tonnes of stone shaped by the waters of China's Lake Tai were transported from China to enhance the landscape. 

 

Rising up in the midst of the Dream Lake Garden are seven pavilions [above right], some of which contain Oriental furniture, art, and cultural artifacts. At the door of one we listened to Shen Qi play exotic music on her erhu. In another pavilion [below left] we wandered through an exhibit of exquisite penjings, Chinese miniature landscapes (and we learned the differences and similarities between penjing and bonsai).

 

Each one of the Garden's ten greenhouses offered a walk through different beauty. The Celestial Greenhouse displays the largest collection of Chinese penjings outside of Asia.  We saw miniature trees as old as 150 years!  The Tropical Plant house contains over 125 species cultivated for their economic benefit, including cocoa, banana, coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, and quinine. The orchid house contains over 1,500 species, hybrids and cultivars. The Hacienda house [above] grows cacti and succulents amid a Spanish colonial setting. Other greenhouses contain ferns, medicinal plants, and begonias. The Main Exhibition house showcased an exhibit of Mediterranean fragrances and aromatic plants from around the world. Walking through the room, rubbing some of the leaves between our fingers, was an olfactory feast. 

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Parc Olympique

Montréal hosted the 1976 Summer Olympics. For that event, the Stade Olympique was built, designed by Parisian architect Roger Taillibert. Today the stadium is home to the Montréal Expos. 

The 56,000-seat oval stadium is covered with a kevlar roof supported by cables stretching from the 190-meter leaning tower, the world's tallest. 

We rode a cable car to the top of the Tour Montréal to get a bird's-eye view of the city, much like visiting the top of the Space Needle. 

The cable car takes 2 minutes to ascend 270 meters to the observatory. The view from the funicular window was terrific [below left]. In 1976 the pyramid-shaped buildings at the base of the tower housed the Olympic Village, where the athletes were housed. 

 

One woman, obviously afraid of heights and standing as far from the window view as she could get, was not reassured by a sudden jerk and stop a few feet from the top. Even we had brief, claustrophobic visions of being precariously trapped inside the car, hanging on the side of the tower, for hours—but we quickly began moving again and reached the observatory. Whew!

From there, we could see up to 80 kilometers away: the Appalachians to the south, the Laurentians to the north, the St. Lawrence River to the east, and to the west, downtown Montréal and Mont-Royal. 

The foot of the tower houses the swimming pools of the Olympic Complex, while the nearby former cycling track, known as the Vélodrome, has been converted into an artificial habitat for plants and animals called the Biodôme.

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Biodôme

The Biodôme recreates four ecosystems—plants, animals, free-flying birds, geology, climate—of North and South America under one high-tech roof. Within the Biodôme's 10,000 square meters, meandering paths lead through and between the Tropical rain forest, the Laurentian forest of hardwoods and conifers, the Saint-Lawrence marine environment, and the subpolar regions of the Arctic and Antarctica. We wished we'd had Cameron with us because the tour of the Biodôme was fun and entertaining, and he would have enjoyed it as much as we did. 

In South America we saw capybaras, the world's largest rodent; torpid, long-toothed caimans; huggable Golden Lion Tamarins; a cave filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and a large group of whirling bats; colorful birds such as the Scarlet Ibis and Scarlet macaws; and aquariums of fascinating fish (including piranhas). The Laurentian forest contained porcupines camouflaged in trees; a beautiful tufted Canadian lynx; river otters cavorting in the water; and beavers sleeping peacefully in their underwater den. The Saint-Lawrence environment included familiar (to us) marine animals and many water fowl. And the exhibits of the two poles contained numerous penguins, including goofy-browed Macaroni, colorful Gentoo, and magestic King penguins. Glass allowed us to get so close to a swimming penguin that we could see every separate feather on its torpedo-shaped body.

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St. Joseph's Oratory

The silhouette of St. Joseph's Oratory, built on the northwestern slope of Mont Royal, is impressive [right]. We arrived on foot at the main gait and were struck by the wide 283-step stairway, the center of which is reserved for supplicants to climb on their knees [below]; the lush landscaping; and the basilica with its giant dome, the largest in the world after St. Peter's in Rome.  

The cornerstone of the Oratory was laid in 1924, but its history begins with a chapel built by Brother André on the spot in 1904. Brother André (beatified by Pope John-Paul II in 1982) was known for his worship of Saint Joseph and his healing abilities. When he died in 1937 at the age of 91, more than one million mourners filed past his body over seven days and nights. Today his body rests in a simple tomb inside the Oratory's sanctuary. 

Inside the  basilica we found very different types of spaces, reflecting the fact that many architects worked on the building, which was not inaugurated until 1955 and not completed until 1967. We were also surprised to find an escalator to move the large number of visitors from one floor to the next; that was a first!

 

The oratory itself is described in the brochure as "clean and modern," but we found it to be one of the most uninviting places of worship we'd ever visited. It is gigantic, with the ability to fit  3,500 seated and another 1,000 standing. It does have a a magnificent 5,811-pipe organ, but its stained glass windows (depicting events in Canadian historical documents that refer to St. Joseph's protection) are so high that they are hard to see, the seats are metal folding chairs, and the walls and floor of the large, open interior are mostly smooth, unadorned concrete. The only richly decorated part of the oratory is a small chapel—usually closed to the public—at the back of the apse. Through a tall locked grille we spied green Vermont marble columns and a hemicycle ceiling covered in gold leaf. In total, we found the basilica to be surprisingly cold and uninspiring.

 

However, we found other spaces much more welcoming. The votive chapel, or Hall of Prayerful Thanksgiving, is a long, softly lit hallway flanked on both sides by alcoves filled with 10,000 vigil lights. The central alcove, holding 3,500 lights, is watched over by a tall statue of Saint Joseph. The pillars of the hallway are interestingly hung with hundreds and crutches left at the shrine by grateful pilgrims when Brother André lived. We watched many light candles and offer prayers in this peaceful and comforting space.

The crypt church sitting at the foot of the basilica, vaulted by flattened arches, is also a warm and much more intimate space (seating 1,000). Built in 1916, it has dark wood pews, traditional stained glass windows, and a main altar incorporating a Carrara marble statue of Saint Joseph sculpted by A. Giacomini.

We also enjoyed our walk outside the church. From the terrace, the highest point in Montréal, we had an unobstructed view of the northern part of the island extending to the Laurentians and, looking west, to Lake St. Louis. Saint Joseph's is also famous for its gardens. Brother André dreamed of offering pilgrims an open-air setting conducive to meditation and prayer. The fulfillment of that dream is a series of statues illustrating the Passion of Christ connected by a winding path through beautiful landscaping. The journey ends in the pool and fountain of the Redemption [right], with seven streams of water flowing from a golden lamb.

The last surprise of our visit was lunch. We went to the nearby Pilgrims' Pavilion (offering food and souvenirs) and discovered that although the cafeteria was rather institutional in appearance, it served a large selection of hot food at more than reasonable prices. The church obviously wasn't trying to make a profit, just serve its visitors a decent hot meal.

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Mont Royal

We had an interesting adventure while trying to get to Chalet du Mont Royal to see the highly touted view. We began by walking from St. Joseph's Oratory but seemed to miss any buses heading toward Voie Camilien Houde, the main road over the mountain.  

To save time finding a bus stop, we headed through Cimetière Notre-Dame-des Neiges, Montréal's largest cemetery with over 1,000,000 buried since its inauguration in 1854 and 55 km of roads and paths. Unfortunately, the cemetery had fewer exit points than we had anticipated, and we did much more walking among the Catholic tombstones than we had anticipated. Winded and footsore, we finally reached a bus stop and waited for about 10 minutes poised on a large rock in the shade. With the appearance of an oncoming bus, we stepped up to the curb...only to watch the bus pass us right by!!  Two tired tourists have rarely been so helplessly frustrated and angry! 

We walked back down the hill, catching a bus to the Metró stop and returning to our hotel and car.  We then drove to Parc du Mont Royal (created in 1870 and designed by Frederick Law Olmsted), stopping at Belvédère Camilien-Houde, a scenic viewpoint along the mountain road overlooking the entire eastern portion of Montréal. We could see all the way to the St. Lawrence River [left]! 

A long walk, much longer than we'd hoped because we got lost among the park's poorly marked paths, led us to Chalet du Mont Royal, from which we had a spectacular view of downtown Montréal with skyscrapers lit rosily in the afternoon sun. The view was great, but what a trial for the feet!

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