|
Intro
1 2 3
4 5 6
Botanical
Garden Parc Olympique
Biodôme Saint Joseph's Oratory
Mont Royal

Montréal Botanical
Garden
 |
The Montréal Botanical Garden showcases over 21,000 species and varieties of
the world's plants in 30 outdoor gardens, ten exhibition greenhouses, and a
96-acre arboretum. We thoroughly enjoyed a peaceful 2-hour stroll (one
could spend a whole day and more) through the Garden's most special
attractions.
The first thing we did upon entering the Garden was to
take a helpful tram ride around the perimeter to orient ourselves. |
|
The Garden contains many beautifully landscaped specialty areas—alpine, flowering
stream, lilac, rhododendron, shade, aquatic, Turkish, marsh and bog, and
rose gardens. It also houses an insectarium and butterfly house, which we
did not have time to visit, and features a First Nations garden that
highlights the Indian cultures that existed in the Montréal area long
before European settlers appeared. But the Garden's star attractions are
probably the Japanese and Chinese gardens.
The Japanese Garden harmoniously combines water, rocks,
and plants. Arched bridges link islets where visitors can pause to
appreciate the serenity of the scene. Orange koi and blotched carp swim
lazily in lily-covered ponds. In the garden's pavilion is an extensive
bonsai collection.
The Chinese Garden, the largest of its style in North America, is
inspired by those of the 14th- to 16th-century Ming Dynasty. Water and stone are
the primary elements: more than 3,000 tonnes of yellow stone were excavated from
nearby St. Helen's Island to create a mountain large enough to host a waterfall
and two pavilions, and 500 tonnes of stone shaped by the waters of China's Lake
Tai were transported from China to enhance the landscape.
|

|
Rising up in the midst of the Dream Lake Garden are seven pavilions [above
right], some of which contain Oriental furniture, art, and cultural artifacts.
At the door of one we listened to Shen Qi play exotic music on her
erhu. In another pavilion [below left] we wandered through an exhibit of
exquisite penjings, Chinese miniature landscapes (and we learned the differences
and similarities between penjing and bonsai).
 |

Each one of the Garden's ten greenhouses offered a walk
through different beauty. The Celestial Greenhouse displays the largest
collection of Chinese penjings outside of Asia. We saw miniature
trees as old as 150 years! The Tropical Plant house
contains over 125 species cultivated for their economic benefit, including
cocoa, banana, coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, and quinine. The orchid house
contains over 1,500 species, hybrids and cultivars. The Hacienda house
[above] grows cacti and succulents amid a Spanish colonial setting. Other
greenhouses contain ferns, medicinal plants, and begonias. The Main
Exhibition house showcased an exhibit of Mediterranean fragrances and
aromatic plants from around the world. Walking through the room, rubbing
some of the leaves between our fingers, was an
olfactory feast.
|
Top
Parc Olympique
| Montréal hosted the 1976 Summer Olympics. For that event,
the Stade Olympique was built, designed by Parisian architect Roger
Taillibert. Today the stadium is home to the Montréal Expos.
The 56,000-seat oval stadium is covered with a kevlar roof supported by
cables stretching from the 190-meter leaning tower, the world's
tallest.
We rode a cable car to the top of the Tour Montréal to get a
bird's-eye view of the city, much like visiting the top of the Space
Needle.
The cable car takes 2 minutes to ascend 270 meters to the observatory.
The view from the funicular window was terrific [below left]. In 1976 the
pyramid-shaped buildings at the base of the tower housed the Olympic
Village, where the athletes were housed.
|

|
|

|
One woman, obviously afraid of heights and standing as far from the
window view as she could get, was not reassured by a sudden jerk and stop
a few feet from the top. Even we had brief, claustrophobic visions of
being precariously trapped inside the car, hanging on the side of the tower,
for hours—but we quickly began moving again and
reached the observatory. Whew!
From there, we could see up to 80 kilometers away: the
Appalachians to the south, the Laurentians to the north, the St. Lawrence
River to the east, and to the west, downtown Montréal and Mont-Royal.
The foot of the tower houses the swimming pools of the Olympic Complex, while
the nearby former cycling track, known as the Vélodrome, has been converted
into an artificial habitat for plants and animals called the Biodôme.
|
Top
Biodôme
The Biodôme
recreates four ecosystems—plants, animals, free-flying birds, geology, climate—of North and South America under one high-tech roof. Within the Biodôme's 10,000 square
meters, meandering paths lead through and between the Tropical rain forest, the Laurentian forest of
hardwoods and conifers, the Saint-Lawrence marine environment, and the subpolar
regions of the Arctic and Antarctica. We wished we'd had Cameron with us because the tour of the Biodôme was fun
and entertaining, and he would have enjoyed it as much as we did.
In South America we saw capybaras, the world's largest rodent;
torpid, long-toothed caimans; huggable Golden Lion Tamarins; a cave filled with stalactites, stalagmites, and a large
group of whirling bats; colorful birds
such as the Scarlet Ibis and Scarlet macaws; and
aquariums of fascinating fish (including piranhas). The Laurentian forest
contained
porcupines camouflaged in trees; a beautiful tufted Canadian lynx; river otters
cavorting in the water; and beavers sleeping peacefully in their underwater den.
The Saint-Lawrence environment included familiar (to us) marine animals and many water
fowl. And the exhibits of the two poles contained numerous penguins,
including goofy-browed Macaroni, colorful Gentoo, and magestic King penguins. Glass
allowed us to get so close to a swimming penguin that we could see every
separate feather on its torpedo-shaped body.
Top
St. Joseph's Oratory
|
The silhouette of St. Joseph's
Oratory, built
on the northwestern slope of Mont Royal, is impressive [right]. We arrived on
foot at the main gait and were struck by the wide 283-step stairway, the
center of which is reserved for supplicants to climb on their knees
[below]; the lush landscaping; and the basilica
with its giant dome, the largest in the world after St. Peter's in
Rome.
The cornerstone of the Oratory was laid in 1924, but its
history begins with a chapel built by Brother André on the spot in 1904.
Brother André (beatified by Pope John-Paul II in 1982) was known for his
worship of Saint Joseph and his healing abilities. When he died in 1937 at
the age of 91, more than one million mourners filed past his body over
seven days and nights. Today his body rests in a simple tomb inside the
Oratory's sanctuary.
Inside the basilica we found very different types of spaces,
reflecting the fact that many architects worked on the building, which was not
inaugurated until 1955 and not completed until 1967. We were also surprised
to find an escalator to move the large number of visitors from one floor
to the next; that was a first! |

|
 |
The oratory itself is described in the brochure as
"clean and modern," but we found it to be one of the most
uninviting places of worship we'd ever visited. It is
gigantic, with the ability to fit 3,500 seated and another 1,000
standing. It does have a a magnificent 5,811-pipe organ, but its stained glass windows (depicting events in Canadian
historical documents that refer to St. Joseph's protection) are so high
that they are hard to see, the seats are metal folding chairs, and the walls and floor of the
large, open interior are mostly smooth, unadorned concrete.
The only richly decorated part of the oratory is a small chapel—usually
closed to the public—at the back of the apse. Through a tall locked
grille we
spied green Vermont marble columns and a hemicycle ceiling covered in gold
leaf. In total, we found the basilica to be surprisingly cold and
uninspiring. |
|
However, we found other spaces much more welcoming. The votive
chapel, or Hall of Prayerful Thanksgiving, is a long, softly lit hallway
flanked on both sides by alcoves filled with 10,000 vigil lights. The
central alcove, holding 3,500 lights, is watched over by a tall statue of
Saint Joseph. The pillars of the hallway are interestingly hung with
hundreds and crutches left at the shrine by grateful pilgrims when Brother André
lived. We watched many light candles and offer prayers in this peaceful
and comforting space.
The crypt church sitting at the foot of the basilica, vaulted by
flattened arches, is also a warm and much more intimate space (seating
1,000). Built in 1916, it has dark wood pews, traditional stained glass
windows, and a main altar incorporating a Carrara marble statue of Saint
Joseph sculpted by A. Giacomini.
We also enjoyed our walk outside the church. From the terrace, the
highest point in Montréal, we had an unobstructed view of the northern
part of the island extending to the Laurentians and, looking west, to Lake
St. Louis. Saint Joseph's is also famous for its gardens. Brother André
dreamed of offering pilgrims an open-air setting conducive to meditation
and prayer. The fulfillment of that dream is a series of statues
illustrating the Passion of Christ connected by a winding path through
beautiful landscaping. The journey ends in the pool and fountain of the
Redemption [right], with seven streams of water flowing from a golden
lamb. |

|
The last surprise of our visit was lunch. We went to the nearby
Pilgrims' Pavilion (offering food and souvenirs) and discovered that although
the cafeteria was rather institutional in appearance, it served a large
selection of hot food at more than reasonable prices. The church obviously
wasn't trying to make a profit, just serve its visitors a decent hot meal.
Top
Mont Royal
We had an interesting adventure while trying to get to Chalet du Mont Royal
to see the highly touted view. We began by walking from St. Joseph's Oratory but
seemed to miss any buses heading toward Voie Camilien Houde, the main road over
the mountain.
 |
To save time finding a bus stop, we headed through
Cimetière Notre-Dame-des Neiges, Montréal's largest cemetery with over
1,000,000 buried since its inauguration in 1854 and 55 km of roads and
paths. Unfortunately, the cemetery had fewer exit points than we had
anticipated, and we did much more walking among the Catholic tombstones
than we had anticipated. Winded and footsore, we finally reached a bus
stop and waited for about 10 minutes poised on a large rock in the shade.
With the appearance of an oncoming bus, we stepped up to the curb...only
to watch the bus pass us right by!! Two tired tourists have rarely
been so helplessly frustrated and angry!
We walked back down the hill, catching a bus to the Metró stop and
returning to our hotel and car. We then drove to Parc du Mont Royal
(created in 1870 and designed by Frederick Law Olmsted), stopping at
Belvédère Camilien-Houde, a scenic viewpoint along the mountain road
overlooking the entire eastern portion of Montréal. We could see all the
way to the St. Lawrence River [left]!
A long walk, much longer than we'd hoped because we got lost among the
park's poorly marked paths, led us to Chalet du Mont Royal, from which we
had a spectacular view of downtown Montréal with skyscrapers lit rosily
in the afternoon sun. The view was great, but what a trial for the
feet! |
Top

[ Home ] [ Our Travels ] [ Family Features ] [ About Us ]
|